Things to Do in Villa de Leyva

Plaza Mayor

The heart of Villa de Leyva is this enormous cobblestoned square, and spending time here is less an activity than a state of mind. The stones are uneven enough that you watch your step, which forces you to slow down, and the scale of the space, ringed by low white buildings with dark wooden balconies, creates a sense of openness that feels almost rural. In the early morning the plaza smells of fresh bread from the panaderias on its edges, and by evening the cooling air carries the sound of guitar from one of the cafes along the southern side. Weekday mornings are the best time to experience the plaza without crowds, when you might have whole stretches of cobblestone to yourself.

El Fosil Museum

About five kilometers outside town, this small museum was built directly over the excavated skeleton of a kronosaurus, a Cretaceous marine reptile whose remains were found in the surrounding shale beds. The fossil is displayed in situ, which means you walk along a raised platform looking down at the bones still partially embedded in the grey, flaky rock, and the smell of dry earth and old stone fills the room. It is an unexpectedly moving experience, standing over the remains of a creature that swam in the shallow sea that covered this valley tens of millions of years ago. The site gets hot in the midday sun with little shade on the approach, so aim for a morning visit.

El Infiernito

This pre-Columbian Muisca site sits in a scrubby valley about fifteen minutes from town and consists of rows of carved stone columns arranged as an astronomical calendar. The columns cast long shadows in the late afternoon light, and the wind that sweeps through the valley has an eerie, low whistle to it. The site is modest in scale compared to, say, San Agustin. But there is something quietly powerful about standing among these stones and realizing the Muisca were tracking solstices here centuries before European contact. It tends to be less crowded on weekday afternoons, and the low-angle light makes for better photographs than the flat midday glare.

Casa Terracota

Colombian architect Octavio Mendoza built this house entirely from baked clay, and it is both a livable structure and a piece of sculptural art on the outskirts of Villa de Leyva. Walking through its rounded, organic rooms feels like being inside a pottery kiln. The walls are warm to the touch where the sun hits them, and the whole interior has a faintly earthy, mineral scent. The furniture, bathtub, and kitchen are all formed from the same terracotta, giving the place a surreal, handmade quality. Visiting early on a weekday means fewer people in the narrow interior passages, which makes the experience more intimate.

Vineyards and Olive Groves

The dry, sunny microclimate around Villa de Leyva supports some of Colombia's only vineyards and olive orchards, and tasting local wine in a country not known for it feels like being let in on a small secret. The vineyards are scattered along the roads leading out of town, and visiting one typically involves walking between low rows of vines with the dusty Boyaca hills in the background, the air sharp with the scent of sun-warmed grape leaves and dry soil. The wines tend toward the light and slightly tannic, and they pair well with the local cheeses that appear on most tasting boards. Saturday mornings are a good window before the weekend visitors arrive in force.

The streets immediately surrounding the Plaza Mayor form the most convenient base, with colonial-era buildings converted into hotels and guesthouses. You step out your door onto the cobblestones and everything is within a few minutes' walk, though weekend noise from the plaza restaurants can drift in through windows.

Heading south along Calle 13 toward the Hidalgo neighborhood, the accommodation tends to be a bit quieter and slightly less expensive, with family-run posadas offering rooms around garden courtyards where hummingbirds work the flower beds in the morning.

The roads leading northeast toward El Fosil have a scattering of rural fincas and boutique properties set among the olive groves and dry-stone walls. These suit travelers who want to wake up to silence and open views of the valley, though you will need transport to reach town.

West of the plaza, the streets climbing toward the hillside offer a handful of converted haciendas with thick adobe walls that stay cool during the day. The elevation gives some of these properties views over the rooftops to the mountains beyond.

Along the road to Raquira, a few eco-lodges and country hotels sit among farmland, with a more rustic feel and sometimes a resident dog who will follow you on walks. These are a good match for travelers who want to combine Villa de Leyva with day trips to the pottery workshops.

The area around the bus terminal, a few blocks from the center, has the most budget-oriented options. The rooms are simpler but functional, and you trade atmosphere for savings and the convenience of being close to onward transport.